From the Mesmerizing Colors of Naejangsan, Korea’s Iconic Autumn Foliage Destination, to the Serenity of a Thousand-Year-Old Temple and a Restful Autumn Retreat
From late October to mid-November, as autumn reaches its peak, Jeongeup, Jeonbuk State, transforms as the entire mountain is draped in crimson silk, seemingly ablaze with autumn color. Home to Naejangsan Mountain, known as the “Geumgangsan of Honam,” Jeongeup is one of Korea’s most spectacular destinations for experiencing the breathtaking intensity of autumn foliage and a restorative seasonal retreat.
Jeongeup is more than just a beautiful autumn destination. It is the birthplace of the Baekje-era song Jeongeupsa and a historic site deeply connected to the Donghak Peasant Revolution. True to Naejangsan’s name, which evokes “a mountain filled with countless treasures hidden within,” the region offers a multisensory healing experience where the tranquility of ancient temples meets forests ablaze with crimson foliage.
From the mysterious reflections at Uhwajeong Pavilion and the 108 Maple Tree Tunnel to the profound stillness of a mountain temple, here is your complete guide to Jeongeup, where the essence of Korea’s autumn foliage unfolds at its most spectacular.
1. History & Story: Naejangsan, the “Mountain of Hidden Treasures,” and the Story of a Thousand-Year-Old Temple
At the heart of Jeongeup lies Naejangsan National Park, designated as Korea’s eighth national park in 1971. Since then, it has become synonymous with autumn foliage and established itself as one of the most celebrated mountains along the Honam mountain range connecting Korea’s southwestern regions.
(1) Naejangsan National Park: An Autumn Spectacle Exploding from a “Mountain of Hidden Treasures”
- A Name Inspired by Hidden Treasures and a Dramatic Landscape:
Naejangsan was originally known as Yeongunsan, after Yeongeunsa Temple. But as visitors ventured deeper into the mountain, they encountered magnificent rocky peaks, deep valleys, and vibrant forests of autumn foliage hidden within. The mountain eventually came to be known as Naejangsan (內藏山), meaning a mountain where “countless treasures are hidden within.”
Native evergreen forests of Dendropanax and nutmeg trees, combined with delicate baby maple leaves, create a distinctive autumn landscape characteristic of East Asia.
- A Sacred Refuge That Preserved the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty:
During the Japanese invasions of Korea in 1592, when historical archives across the country were being destroyed, two Confucian scholars from Jeongeup, An Ui and Son Hong-rok, risked their lives to protect the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the portrait of King Taejo Yi Seong-gye. They moved the precious records from the Jeonju Historical Archives deep into Naejangsan, hiding them in caves such as Yonggul and Biraeam.
The fact that we can still read the history of 500 years of the Joseon Dynasty today owes much to this extraordinary act of preservation within the mountains of Naejangsan.
- The Poetic Legacy of Baekje: The Home of Jeongeupsa:
Naejangsan is also associated with Jeongeupsa, the only surviving song from the Baekje period and one of the oldest sets of Korean lyrics preserved in written form. The poignant legend tells of a wife who prayed to the moon to shine brightly upon her husband, who had gone away on a trading journey, fearing that he might encounter danger on the dark road home. Set against the deep valleys of Naejangsan, the story adds a hauntingly poetic layer to the region’s history.
(2) The Aesthetics of Autumn Foliage: Uhwajeong & the 108 Maple Tree Tunnel
- The Dreamlike Reflections of Uhwajeong (羽化亭):
Uhwajeong sits gracefully in the middle of a clear pond, carrying a legend that its pavilion once “grew wings and ascended to the heavens.” The reflection of crimson foliage seemingly ablaze alongside its blue-tiled roof creates a perfect mirror image across the water—a signature scene that announces the beginning of an autumn journey through Jeongeup.
- The 108 Maple Tree Tunnel: Letting Go of 108 Earthly Desires:
The approximately 300-meter stretch from Naejangsa Iljumun Gate to the temple entrance is lined with 108 maple trees, forming a spectacular arched tunnel overhead. Inspired by the Buddhist concept of 108 worldly afflictions, this tranquil walking trail invites visitors to let go of each burden one by one as they walk across a carpet of crimson leaves and quietly settle their minds.
(3) Naejangsa Temple & Byeokryeonam Hermitage: Mountain Serenity at the End of the Maple-Lined Trail
- A Successor to Yeongunsa with 1,400 Years of History:
Founded by the Buddhist monk Yeongunjo during the reign of King Mu of Baekje in 636, Naejangsa Temple is a thousand-year-old Buddhist temple that has endured countless chapters of history. Surrounded by mountain peaks like a natural folding screen, the distant sound of wooden temple instruments and wind chimes unique to an autumn mountain temple offers travelers a profound sense of inner peace.
- Byeokryeonam Hermitage Beneath Seoraebong Peak:
Located above Naejangsa beneath the sheer cliffs of the towering Seoraebong Peak, Byeokryeonam is the original site where the old Naejangsa Temple was first established during the Baekje period. This quiet hermitage offers an expansive view of the dramatic rocky cliffs of Seoraebong and the vast sea of autumn foliage stretching across Naejangsan below—a serene place to pause and take in the landscape.
2. Scene: The Views You’ll Discover
(1) Uhwajeong Pavilion: Crimson Autumn Reflections on the Pond
At dawn, a gentle morning mist settles over the pond like a veil, creating a serene scene where Uhwajeong’s blue-tiled roof and the crimson autumn foliage are reflected on the water’s surface like a perfect mirror.
- The View: Stand in the middle of the stepping stones and bring your camera close to the surface of the pond. Capture a picture-perfect scene as crimson maple leaves and Uhwajeong’s reflection gently ripple across the water—the ultimate mirror-image shot of an autumn trip to Jeongeup.
(2) The 108 Maple Tree Tunnel: A Secret Road Beneath a Crimson Canopy
Delicate maple leaves grow so densely overhead that the sky almost disappears, creating a spectacular crimson archway above the trail.
- The View: Wait for the moment when autumn sunlight filters through the leaves of the 108 Maple Tree Tunnel. Walk along the trail beneath baby maple leaves sparkling like translucent jewels in the sunlight, with a carpet of crimson fallen leaves underfoot, and immerse yourself in the romance of autumn.
(3) Naejangsan Cable Car & Yeonjabong Observatory: A Sea of Autumn Foliage Across Nine Peaks
Take the cable car over the crimson forest below and make your way to Yeonjabong Observatory, where the magnificent peaks of Naejangsan unfold before you.
- The View: From Yeonjabong Observatory, look out across the landscape below. A breathtaking panoramic view awaits, with a sea of crimson foliage rippling through the valleys embraced by Naejangsan’s nine peaks like a natural folding screen.
(4) Byeokryeonam Hermitage: The Quiet of an Autumn Mountain Temple Beneath Seoraebong
The massive rocky cliffs of Seoraebong rise behind the hermitage like a giant folding screen, while the graceful little temple sits quietly among the crimson autumn foliage.
- The View: Stand on the wooden veranda of Byeokryeonam’s courtyard or at the edge of the stone terrace and listen to the gentle sound of the wind chimes swaying in the breeze. The dramatic contrast between the gray rocky peaks and the sea of colorful foliage brings a deep sense of calm and tranquility.
3. Transportation: How to Get from Seoul (Yongsan Station) to Naejangsan National Park
When traveling from Seoul to Naejangsan, the most convenient and efficient option is to take the Honam Line KTX from Yongsan Station, then transfer to a local bus at Jeongeup Station.
Option A. By Train (Yongsan Station ➔ Jeongeup Station ➔ Naejangsan)
- Departure from Seoul: Board at Yongsan Station (Seoul Subway Lines 1 & Gyeongui-Jungang Line) ➔ Arrive at Jeongeup Station
- Travel Time & Fares:
- KTX: Approximately 1 hr 40 min / around ₩39,500
- ITX-Saemaeul: Approximately 3 hr 30 min–3 hr 50 min / ₩27,900
- Mugunghwa-ho: Approximately 3 hr 50 min / ₩18,800
- Last Mile (Jeongeup Station → Naejangsan):
- City Bus: Take Bus 171 from the bus stop in front of Jeongeup Station ➔ Get off at Naejang Camping Ground / approximately 30 min, ₩1,000
- Taxi: From the taxi stand outside Jeongeup Station ➔ approximately 20 min to the entrance of Naejangsan National Park / around ₩15,000
Option B. By Bus (Seoul Central City Terminal ➔ Jeongeup Terminal / Naejangsan)
- Departure from Seoul: Board at Central City Terminal (Express Bus Terminal Station, Seoul Subway Lines 3, 7 & 9) ➔ Arrive at Jeongeup Express Bus Terminal / approximately 3 hr, around ₩24,300 for Premium Economy Express
- Last Mile (Jeongeup Express Bus Terminal → Naejangsan):
- City Bus: Take Bus 171 from the bus stop in front of Jeongeup Terminal ➔ Get off at Naejang Camping Ground / approximately 30 min, ₩1,000
- Taxi: From the taxi stand at Jeongeup Terminal ➔ approximately 20 min to the entrance of Naejangsan National Park / around ₩15,000
※ Special Transportation Tips for Peak Autumn Foliage Season (Late October–Mid-November)
- Direct Temporary Buses to Naejangsan: During peak foliage season, temporary direct bus services are added from major terminals such as Seoul Central City Terminal. These buses travel directly to the entrance of Naejangsan National Park (Naejangsan Terminal) without stopping in downtown Jeongeup.
- Frequent Shuttle Buses from Jeongeup Station: Bus 171 services between Jeongeup Station and Naejangsan are significantly increased during peak season, operating at frequent intervals like a shuttle service, making it easier for travelers without cars to reach the park with minimal waiting time.
4. Secret Tips: How to Enjoy Naejangsan During Peak Foliage Season
(1) The Early Bird Strategy
Naejangsan draws huge crowds from across Korea during peak foliage season, from late October to mid-November. Arrive before 8:00 a.m. to enjoy Uhwajeong and the maple tree tunnel in the clear morning air, before traffic and crowds arrive.
(2) Combine It with the Cable Car
Take the cable car from the entrance of Naejangsa Temple and reach Yeonjabong Observatory in just five minutes. From the observatory, the sea of autumn foliage across Naejangsan’s nine peaks offers an entirely different spectacle.
(3) Make Use of the Shuttle Bus
During the autumn foliage season, a circulating shuttle bus operates between the Naejangsan Visitor Information Center and the entrance to Naejangsa Temple. If the walk feels too long, make good use of the shuttle service.
[Information]
- Naejangsan National Park & Naejangsa Temple
- Address: 1207, Naejangsan-ro, Jeongeup-si, Jeonbuk State
- Contact: +82-63-538-7875 (National Park Office)
- Hours: Open year-round (Naejangsa Temple & Cable Car: 09:00–17:00 / subject to seasonal changes)
- Admission: Free for Naejangsan National Park and Naejangsa Temple (Cable car & parking fees apply separately)
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EPILOGUE: Leaving Your Worries Behind with a Single Crimson Leaf
Walking through the Naejangsan forest at the peak of autumn foliage is more than simply witnessing the changing of the seasons. It is a healing journey that fills a weary heart with the warm glow of crimson autumn. As you watch delicate maple leaves sway gently beneath the 108 Maple Tree Tunnel, the worries accumulated deep within begin to fall away naturally.
Like the maple leaves of Naejangsan, which let go of their leaves without hesitation at their most beautiful moment, autumn in Jeongeup gently teaches us how to empty ourselves and let things go. Before the season completely passes, make your way to Jeongeup, where a crimson silk road unfolds before you, and write one of the most dazzling pages of your autumn story.